jeff
4 posts
May 22, 2008
1:01 PM
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Something I've been asked about quite a few times is whether the chine logs on the 12' have to be steamed to spring them in. I've never steamed any but have broken one. It does require high quality stock to take that much compound curve.
Laminating in 2 layers produces a chine log that is probably stronger and doesn't introduce so much stress into the hull (or the builder). A single piece tends to transfer enough force into the transoms to warp them if you're not careful.
Using the newer building method I laminate the chine logs from marine ply in place after the hull in turned. The rocker is cut into them so they only have to be sprung to the curve of the hull sides. Much less strain built into the hull this way.
I do miss scaring myself by torturing a perfectly nice piece of timber though.Cheers and no bending fears,
Jeff
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pachristian
4 posts
Nov 24, 2008
11:12 AM
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I snapped a chine log while building my 'Super Pelican' - it turned out the beam had a hidden knot. Very annoying. I ended up expoying it back together. This set me back a couple of days as I had to let the board straighten out, glue it, clamp it a couple of times, and then bend it back into place. For the most part the curves are gentle enough that the bend is not a problem. Use a spanish windlass to pull them into place. Incidentally, the folks at the San Francisco Maritime Museum (they build Pelicans as part of their wooden boatbuilding class) told me that they install the chine logs, then plane them flat to put the bottom on, instead of putting a bevel cut in them before installation. I wish I'd thought of that - not having a table saw, I paid a lumberyard to cut the bevel. I could have saved a couple of bucks...
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